Locks and Security

Schlage Everest & Primus Cutaways

2007-10-07T11:54:00.000-07:00

Schlage debuted in 1920 by founder Walter Schlage and Charles Kendrick. Being one of the most popular consumer and commercial lock seller, Schlage locks are mostly generic, low security and low costing locks. However, they do have a line of high security cylinders such as the Everest®, the Primus® and the Everest Primus®. All three of these have a new high security feature incorporated into them. These are called side pins or finger pins as we call them in the lock picking world. These are UL437 listed.

The way these work is, the cut on the right side of the key interacts in a mechanical way to lift the finger pins to the correct height. The Everest and Primus are different, both use different concepts, here are the differences.

On the Everest, the key has only one cut and lifts what we call the "check pin". The one I have is a C123.

As you can notice in the photo, the Everest key is thicker then the Primus key by 0.014" as well as the stamping on the bow.
C145 999 key.

On the Primus, the key has five cuts. These 5 cuts on the right side of the key don't only lift the finger pins, but also rotates them to allow the sidebar to fall in place. The finger pins have six possible positions. The six possible positions are: UP, DOWN, LEFT, RIGHT or CENTER. All of this on a normal six pin vertical tumbler mechanism.

Here we can see the finger pins in action. In this photo, the finger pins are in random order and are not set in the correct position. For them to be set correctly , the pins would have to look like these:

The process of the sidebar falling into the finger pins is like a puzzle. The tongues of the finger pins need to be aligned with the grooves on the sidebar to allow retraction. Heres's a photo of a finger pin in a sidebar:

Here's the finger pin (notice the tongue)

These specifications apply to both Everest and Primus

MACS = 7
Increment: .015"
Progression: 2 step
Blade width: .343"
Depth Tolerance: + .002” - 0
Spacing Tolerance: ± .001”

That is all for now. I think this article will be quite interesting and I hope you find it to.

Updates

2007-10-07T11:45:00.000-07:00

I finally decided to add a couple of interesting things. I've been out for quite a while now (part time locksmith) , haven't had much time to add anything, but since I have a little time in my hands, i'll be posting 3-4 articles about some locks I got recently.

Here are some:

Schlage Everest & Primus cutaways
Simplex 1000 Series mechanism
Abloy Protec cylinder cutaway
Sargent & Greenleaf 6730

And some others..

The first ones i'll be showing will be the schlages since I have all the photos done, and I just need to write about them. The rest of the locks still need to be shot.

Stay tuned !

Project Abloy: Complete !

2007-06-12T06:24:00.000-07:00

I got the parts today, assembled it, got into a couple of problems, solved them and finished it. This project allowed me to learn everything about protec cylinders and also, let me gain a sens of pride. It's been approximately 2 months i've been on this project, some poeple might say ‹‹ Jeez ! What took you so long ?! ›› well, the answer to that is, I took my time because I did not want to scrap an expensive lock.

Anyways, here are some pictures of the completed lock !

Scanlock cutaway

2007-06-08T17:16:00.000-07:00

Another successful cutaway !
Today I decided to take apart my Scanlock just to see if it was possible to cut it away and I found that I could, so, I did it .

Again, this was all done by hand using mini-files, no angle grinder though :)

The cutaway shows the inner workings of the cylinder, example: sidebar retracting, bottom pins to shear line the side pins etc..

Here are some pictures:

Masterlock 930/6230 cutaway

2007-06-07T15:12:00.000-07:00

Well, I had nothing to do today, so I decided to make a cutaway. I did the 930 because it has a removable core and it's easy to work with. This was all done on the angle grinder and some mini-files for the small details. For me, it's still not factory-like and it still needs some work, but i'll get it done when I have the correct tools. Here are some pictures:

Pfaffenhain "Integral" cutaway

2007-06-01T12:25:00.000-07:00

I guess during the time this Abloy 340 is being finished, we can have a little fun. Anyways, here's the Pfaffenhain Integral cutaway. For the description, well, I don't feel like copy/pasting Han Fey's article about Pfaffenhain locks, here's the link to the pdf.

Pfaffenhain locks

Here are some pictures

Paracentric keyway
90 degree rotation
180 degree rotation
270 degree rotation

Little problem

2007-05-30T08:41:00.000-07:00

Yesterday, May 29th, I went to three locksmiths nearly going to the other extremity of Montreal island. Anyways, I came across a locksmith called 'Serrurier du Nord'. The locksmiths were very nice and cooperative with me and were generous enough to inspect the protec cylinder for me. They told me my profile plate is a restricted plate and that I will need to replace it with a standard profile plate. Because of this, I need to order a new profile plate from the states, making this project longer and more aggravating. I will then get the keys cut.

Till then, nothing will advance.

Project Abloy: Success !

2007-05-25T13:53:00.000-07:00

Well, after all this time, I knew it was going to be worth it. After all the thinking and planning, I finally got it. I have to say I did get a lot of help from a good friend and without him, I couldn't of done it...really.

Anyways, I didn't accomplish this project the way I said I was going to. The planning stayed the same, although, the drilling part changed. Instead, I cut the screw-in plate in chunks to remove it. It took 2 hours and 30 minutes to successfully complete the cuts.Here are some pictures.
*EDIT: It seems like all locksmiths over here are closed on Saturday and Sunday so, I won't be able to have the keys made before next week.

Quick plan

2007-05-24T17:14:00.001-07:00

Lock Drilling Preparation
Things to do before, while and after the drilling.

- Before
o Apply 2 to 3 coats of transparent tape over the bottom of the lock (to avoid scratching the body when punching center hole)
o Punch center hole thru tape (still don’t know where exactly)
o Apply another 2 to 5 coats of transparent tape (to avoid scratching the body when drilling), punching each coat of tape to keep track of center point.
o Make a stable vise base to prevent shaking that might lead to failure.
o Make sure the lock is perfectly straight to avoid driving the bit another way.
o Make final measurements.

- While
o Oiling, lubrication is a must. I have a choice between vegetable oil (and syringe), WD40 or, anything that’s good enough (will need a second hand for this)

-After
o Carefully remove tape.
o Carefully un-screw screw-in plate.

Keys update

2007-05-17T11:05:00.000-07:00

Today I decided to call about 15 places to get some prices on a combination change and a key. I fell on a locksmith shop called "Amherst Serrurier" and the guy was very nice on the phone. Anyways, I ask him how much a combi. change and a new key for it would cost, he replied 27$ + txs. Not bad at all, considering I was going to pay almost double that one week ago.

Lesson learnt, always shop around before setting your mind on something.

Also, here's a general update of what's going on.

- I have the two parts (4361071) and (805416)
- Drill bits are on the way
- I can get the combination changed and a key done for 30.00$

I love you Abloy

2007-05-15T10:19:00.000-07:00

I wake up this morning to a nice knock on my front door, here's what a got:

- Plug retainer screw (805416)
- Plug screw-in plate (4361071)

The only thing missing now is the solid carbide drill bit and a key or two. Some people might be asking how the hell I will get a key for this lock. Well, after a lot of researching, I decided to get the cylinder rekeyed which is less expensive and easier to do. This will not be an easy task since I have to send the cylinder in the U.S to get it decoded.

In the end, I know it's going to be worth it. After all, it's always better to gain a bit of knowledge by doing it the hard way and getting it right at the end, than just buying a new lock ;) Updates soon.

*EDIT: I found a shop located 20 minutes from my house that can rekey the lock and make me some keys.

Masterlock cutaway

2007-05-14T14:03:00.000-07:00

Let the pictures talk for themselves:

I personally find it's far from the best but, as I said, this is just a practice lock that serves as reference. I will not attempt to make the No.5 cutaway due to the un-removable core. Although, I was thinking of making a BEST cutaway to replace it. The big pieces were ground off with an angle grinder, and the details with mini-files. Some parts needed buffering to remove the gunk, unveiling a shine. Any questions are welcome !

Masterlock Padlock cutaway

2007-05-11T18:26:00.000-07:00

While I wait for the stock to arrive, I decided to start working on a Masterlock cutaway just for the show. Today, I worked on a Masterlock No.25 padlock and it turned out pretty nice, although, this is just a practice shot before I do the real cutaway. The real cutaway will be a Masterlock No.5 with a modified pinning and won't have defects like the No.25 has, it'll be perfect. At the beginning of next week, i'll post some pictures of the No.25 and i'll start the No.5 to. Until then, I have stuff to do..

Update

2007-05-07T11:15:00.000-07:00

I've been looking around for some solid carbide bits for the protec drilling but, I can't seem to settle on some good ones yet. Once I get them, it's on.

However, there are still some things that I am worried about like a new screw-in plate to replace the drilled one, if a key can be made for it and will it be to costly/not worth it ?

Long story short, many things need to be done before starting this project, like anything else in fact and I still have a long way to go before this is done.

**EDIT: Zeke79 on lp101 told me to contact the owner of www.Bayarealocks.com and to ask there if they could get me the parts ( New screw-in plate and set screw). Fortunately, the owner sent me the parts (thanks Dennis). For the solid bits, I think I found some but I am still hesitating. As for the keys, I got some prices but I am still shopping around. Updates soon..

Medeco Biaxial 6-pin SFIC Breakdown

2007-05-04T07:10:00.000-07:00

In the advanced section of Lockpicking101, I talked about grinding my Medeco padlock open to see the interior of it. I wasn't sure how to proceed so, I examined it. TOWCH, a fine member, had some information about the location of each piece inside the lock, which helped me a lot.

At first, I grinded at 1.400" from the bottom to unveil the retracting mechanism, a bit over the IC, then I angle grinded the ball-bearings that secured the shackle in place, destroying the padlock body.

After that, I needed remove the pins in order to extract the core. Here's what I found:

Before Grinding:
Just after I grinded it
We can see the springs
All cleaned up
Sidebar view
In black: Anti-drill hardened-steel inserts
In red: Space that allows pin to rotate (10° to the right and 10° to the left)
Sidebar

Pin configurationsIn black: Real notch
In red: False notch

I have to say, this one took me a bit longer but it was worth the effort. I will make a display case for the lock and, I will post it here.

Cheers !

Do or do not do..

2007-05-03T19:04:00.000-07:00

A couple of words before some action being done.
Drilling the 340 is quite a task compared to the 330. Here's why:

- The little amount of space to work with on the screw-in plate (approx half of ¼"), compared to the 330's flat body (approx. ¼").
- The materials being drilled in. The 330 has a brass body, a much softer material then hardened steel.
- Different, more stronger and reliable drill bits will be needed to drill through the hardened steel (solid carbide).

That said, only effort and time will accomplish this project...huhh hummm...Forgot to add "guts" :)

EVVA 3KS

2007-05-01T10:53:00.000-07:00

EVVA started business in Europe in the 1919s and since then, they are well known for their unique designs.
Some of the recent locks they've made are, the MCS, which stands for Magnetic Code System, that works with a combination of magnets and rotors, the DPI which stands for Double Profile Integrated because of the added sidebar, and many more that I will elaborate on, once I get them. The one I will talk about now, is the famous 3KS. The name 3KS stands for 3 Kurven System in Germany, and the reason why they call it like this is because the key uses 3 curves that vary in depth to interact with finger pins inside the lock. To understand how the lock fully works, you need to know the basics of how 'finger pins' function. Here are some pictures of the keys and the lock itself:

Hopefully soon, i'll get this one cutaway.

Scanlock SLX-5

2007-04-30T15:49:00.000-07:00

The Scanlock SLX-5 and it's predecessor, the Scorpion CX-5 have a very similar construction. They are both equipped with a laser/worm/track on one side of the key that interacts with finger pins inside the lock and a set of 6 pins. This dramatically decreases the chances of being able to pick it. The Scorpion CX-5s have mushroom driver pins as opposed to the SLX-5 that doesn't. They both have the same twisted keyway. Unfortunatly, I do not have the CX-5 to do a comparison, although, I do have the SLX-5 and a nice breakdown of it to. Here, take a look:
Here we can see the sidebar and the finger pins it interacts with.
Sidebar

Slot where sidebar slides into
Only a few people have these locks because the company that used to produce them went out of business. Lucky me I got one :)

Kaba Gemini

2007-04-30T13:46:00.000-07:00

The Kaba Gemini, what a fun lock to pick. This lock is all about feather tension and softness. It comprises a total of 8 pins, 2 on top and 3 on both sides. It is UL listed, and it shouldn't be. I find that this lock doesn't do what it's supposed to do and personally, I can pick it in under 2 minutes, although, this all depends on the pickers skills of course. At first, I needed to adapt to it, get to know it better and learn how to feel the pins and apply the correct tension. However, this lock is a nice item to have in a collection due to it's rareness, check it out:

Abloy 330 Breakdown/Drill

2007-04-30T09:32:00.000-07:00

The drill bit used was a size 7/32 with a Mastercraft drill press. I first made a center point so the drill bit wouldn't deviate and scratch everything. The hole thing took me about 15 minutes and wasn't so challenging after all.

Here is a close up of the false notches on the disks.

This allowed me to learn how an abloy disk lock works.

Abloy 330

2007-04-29T21:43:00.000-07:00

Well, I have to start somewhere so from now and on, lots of locks will be seen. I would like to mention that, I don't have that many high security locks at the moment due to my poorness , but I will be getting some in the near future. Here is the first one: Abloy 330 Padlock. This is high grade stainless steel and is very resistant . It also has stainless steel balls locking the shackle on both sides. The width of the body is 48mm total and, the shackle is made of boron steel and is 8mm in diameter. The cylinder contains 11 disks which makes it very hard to pick or bypass. Unfortunately, I don't have the keys for this one..
Today I will try to drill this lock as I am curious to see it's interior. I still need to inform myself on which diameter bit I need to use in order to successfully remove the cylinder. I will post pictures of the progress..
More to come..

Blog Inauguration

2007-04-29T20:01:00.000-07:00

Aside from my other blog, I decided to start a new one because of all the valuable information I have and that I am willing to share it. The point of this blog is to inform/elaborate on certain locks.

Barry "The Key" Wels, owner of www.Toool.nl and his blog "Blackbag" has had great success and, it is very well merited because of all the great information he provides us all. He is a very gifted person and we all wish one day, to be able to have his knowledge and the amount of interest he has for locks and security.

Unfortunately, this blog will never reach the Blackbag quality due to the amount of sources I have, but I can insure that I will do my best to keep it up and give the most information I can.

Anybody who would like to be part of this blog, or just wants to give out some valuable information to enlarge the information database, just lemme know :)